Pattern drafting and grading chart



Jan. 26, 1937. l. KRAVITZ 2,068,684

PATTERN DRAF TING AND GRADING CHART 7 Filed March 11, 1935 INVENTOR. [fl [n9 Kr-a J/z TORNEYS.

Patented Jan. 26, 1937 UNITED STATES PATE T OFFIQE PATTERN DRAFTING AND GRADING CHART 6 Claims.

The invention relates to charts for drafting and grading patterns, particularly such'as are used in the manufacture of wearing apparel. It has for its main object to provide a chart by means of which, when once a pattern of a certain size has been made, patterns of other sizes may readily be produced with a minimum expenditure of time .and labor and without any danger of error.

Another object is to provide a chart by means of which right and left hand patterns can be made to contain certain markings which will make it -easyto cutthe'goods, on which the patternsare used, in such a way that the=design in the-goods will be perfectly matched when sewed together. A further object is to provide a chart which can be manufactured at a low cost, and which can be used without requiring great skill on the part of the operator.

'These and various 'other objects and 'advan- :tages will'bereadily understood from the "follow- 'ing description and from the "foregoing drawing of a preferred embodiment of the invention, in

'which, -however, modifications may be made without departing from the scope of the appended claims. In the drawing Fig. 1 shows one of the charts on which a pattern has been placed,

Fig. 2 shows this pattern,

Fig. 3 shows the chart folded and with two patterns placed thereon, and

Fig. 4 shows one of the patterns illustrated in Fig. 3.

Referring firstto Figs. 1 'and 2 the chart consisting of a sheet of relatively heavy paper 10 on which a plurality of basic, horizontal lines I l and a plurality of basic, vertical lines 12 are imprinted. These lines extend clear across the sheet. On each side of the basic lines, grading lines 13 and are likewise imprinted. The distance between the lines on each side of the basic lines is preferably equal to the difference between one pattern size and 'the next, as for eX- vample, between-a -38 pattern and a 39. The patterns, such for example as the one shown at A in Figs. 1 and 2, are drafted on this paper and cutin the regular manner. In cutting this first ipatternno regards need be taken to the lines on the chart.

Assuming that the pattern A is 'of a certain size, iforr'example 38 and it is desired to cut a pattern size 39: The pattern is laid on the chart with the basic horizontal and vertical lines of both the pattern and the chart coinciding. To 5.; cut the next largest size, the pattern is first moved up one line, as shown iniFig. v1, so that the horizontal basic line of the pattern is showncoinciding with the line [3 above the basic line Ill of the chart. When in this position a line is drawn onthe chart to indicate the upper edge of the pattern. The pattern is next moved one line to the left and the left edge of the pattern drawn on the chart. After which. the pattern is moved'jdown until its basic lines coincide with the line l3 below the horizontal line H of the chart and the lower edge of the pattern is marked. Finally the pattern is moved to the right in a similar manner and the right edge of the pattern is marked on the chart.

The pattern thus drawn on the chart, when out out, willbe one size larger-than the original pattern. By moving the patterns up and down and sidewardlytwo lines at a time, patterns two sizes larger may be produced. In like manner smaller patterns may be produced from a larger pattern by reversing the process of changing the pattern on the chart.

Referring now to Figs. 3 and 4: In this instance the chart has been shown folded upon itself so as to disclose part of the rear of the chart. Basic lines 15 and I6 are imprinted on the back of the chart and these lines coincide exactly with "the basic lines on front of the chart. By means of these lines it is possible to fold the sheet with great accuracy. By snipping oif the'corners l1 and 18 of the chart the sheet may be so folded that the basic horizontal lines II on the front -of the sheet may be folded to coincide exactly with the basic lines IE on the rear of the sheet. Thus assuring that the lines of the folded sheet will be in exact relation to each other after the fold has been made.

When a pattern, such as for example B, is laid on the chart and moved as previously explained to increase or decrease its size, when cut out, a right and the left hand pattern is produced on which all of the lines are located exactly alike. This is a great aid in cutting striped, plaided or similar material, in that the lines on the patterns may be used as guide lines for cutting the material so that the stripes or plaids will match when the different pieces are sewed together. The halfpattern C, when placed on the chart with its lower end adjacent to the fold, will, when the pattern is cut from the sheet, produce a complete-pattern when the fold is straightened out.

It will be noted that on the drawing the basic lines have been shown in full, the lines next to these lines have been shown as broken lines, and the outer lines as dotted lines. This is to more readily identify the lines and prevent error in shifting the pattern. Of course, it will be understood that the same result may be obtained by printing the lines in various contrasting colors. In like manner, while the drawing shows the charts as consisting of individual sheets, it is evident that these charts might be printed on long rolls of paper.

From the foregoing it will be seen that these charts are comparatively cheap to produce, that they can be used for cutting patterns of all kinds, as well as for grading such patterns, and that they are easy to use, requiring but slight skill on the part of the operator and preventing mistakes and errors.

While the chart has been described and illustrated for use with patterns for wearing apparels, it will be understood that these charts may be used for making patterns of many other kinds and I therefore do not wish to limit the invention to any particular use.

Having described the invention and its objects what I claim is new and wish 'to protect by Letters Patent is:

l. A device comprising a. lined sheet for drafting and grading patterns, including a chart, and a relatively irregular pattern piece, said chart and pattern piece being separated parts of said sheet, said chart and pattern piece each having a first and a second series of substantially equally spaced parallel indicator lines extending substantially throughout the chart and the pattern piece, the lines'on the pattern piece extending to the edges thereof, the first series of lines being at one angle to the second series of lines for both pattern piece and chart, whereby the pattern piece may be moved in various directions to diiferent positions along the chart with the lines of the pattern piece in substantial alinement with the lines of the chart so that a pattern of different size may be drafted on the chart by ruling thereon along the edges of the pattern piece.

2. A device for drafting and grading garment patterns, including a chart and a pattern piece movable relatively thereto, said chart and pattern piece consisting of parts of an easily severable relatively heavy sheet material so that the pattern piece can be readily shifted upon the chart, the chart and pattern piece each having a first and a second series of parallel grade lines, all of said lines being spaced to correspond to a difference in size between standard sizes of patterns, the first series of grade lines being at thesame angle to the second series of lines for both the chart and the pattern piece, the grade lines extending substantially throughout the chart and from edge to edge of the pattern piece, as and for the purpose set forth.

3. A device for drafting patterns of different sizes, including a chart and a pattern piece each adapted to be constructed as parts of a sheet of lined material and each having substantially vertical and horizontal parallel lines extending throughout the same, all of said lines being spaced in relation to a difference in size between standard pattern sizes, including alternate lines: on both of the chart and pattern piece substantially continuously differentiated therealong so that the pattern piece can be shifted along the chart to different positions for ruling on the chart a pattern of a size different from that of the pattern piece, and the lines of the pattern piece being adapted at the edges of the latter to aliningly continue along chart lines that correspond to or are differentiated from the therewith alining lines of the pattern piece, so that the shape of the ruled pattern is similar to that of the pattern piece.

4. A device for drafting patterns one or two sizes larger or smaller in size from the size of a standard pattern piece, including a chart member and a pattern member, the pattern member constituting an integral severable portion of the chart member, and upon being severed from the chart member, being movable thereon, said members having substantially vertical and horizontal equally spaced basic lines, a pair of grading lines on each side of substantially all basic lines and associated therewith, the grading lines of each pair being differentiated from each other and from the basic lines and being parallel to the latter, the grading lines being substantially equally spaced from each other and from the basic lines, the basic and grading lines on the chart member extending throughout the same, and on the pattern member extending from edge to edge thereof, as and for the purpose described and specified.

5. A device for drafting patterns of different sizes, including a chart, and a pattern piece of relatively irregular shape having edges adapted to constitute guides for ruling lines on the chart, said chart and pattern piece consisting of readily severable sheet material, the pattern piece being of relatively heavy material and having substantially vertical and horizontal parallel lines extending throughout and from edge to edge thereof, the vertical and horizontal lines being respectively uniformly spaced from each other a distance having a predetermined relation to a difference in size between different like patterns, alternate lines of the vertical and horizontal lines being substantially continuously diiferentiated therealong, and the chart having indicia means disfiaosed throughout the same, said indicia means including elements arranged in vertical and horizontal rows spaced so as to be adapted to aline with said vertical and horizontal lines and alternate indicia elements being uniformly differentiated from each other throughout the chart, whereby the pattern piece can be shifted on the chart vertically, horizontally and angularly with the lines of the pattern piece alining with differentiated indicia elements on the chart, so that a pattern can be ruled on the chart similar to but of different size than the pattern piece.

6. In a chart for drafting and grading patterns, a plurality of basic horizontal lines, a plurality of basic vertical lines, grading lines provided on both sides of all of said basic lines, the distance between the basic lines and each of their grading lines as well as between adjacent grading lines being equivalent to the difference between one standard pattern size and another, the rear face of the chart imprinted with vertical lines which may be aligned with the basic vertical lines on the front face when the chart is folded for the purpose of cutting double patterns for striped or similarly distinctly patterned goods, and portions cut away from the charts on opposite sides to facilitate the aligning of these lines.

IRVING KRAVITZ. 

